Thursday, 28 February 2013

Day 25 - 27 Lakes district of Argentina ( Bariloche )

Previous Post: Day 22 - 24 Austral Rt 7 of Chile - Coyhaique to Esquel, Argentina

Photo Album: Lakes of Argentina
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Links for previous posts are on the left. Expand the month tags to see posts for that month.

We reached Esquel of Argentina after leaving the scenic Austral Rt 7 of Chile, and reentered Argentina at Futaleufu in the late afternoon.  After a good night sleep, it was time to continue our drive along the western side of Argentina, northwards.

In the distance to the west, we could hardly make out the snow capped Andes mountains which straddle along the border of Argentina and Chile.




We decided to double back a little bit, and drove towards Alerces National Park on Rt 71, instead of the boring highway 40 that runs through this side of Patagonia. 







In here, the Lakes District of Argentina kept teasing us with the beautiful and tranquil lakes within Los Alecres National Park.



Alerces has a few beautiful lakes, and beautiful pebble beaches.  But then again, after southern Patagonia, it was difficult to get too excited about more lakes and mountains, especially those without icy blue waters and snow or glaciers.…



It was good to see the speedometer was able to get up to 120 Kph and sustainable after over 2 weeks of clacking on gravels.  Gosh, got to replace that front wheel tomorrow with the uncomfortable wheel balance shake!!


It was an uneventful drive from Esquel to Barilochi, about a 300 Km drive, all except the 120 Km within Alerces National Park were on grade A highway, a real swift run.  The weather just couldn't be better with blue skies every direction we looked.



And more deep blue lakes along the way....




The sunny day was getting sunnier as we move north through the lakes into San Carlos de Barilochi.  We were still in Patagonia, but here have certainly more population, traffics and petrol was getting more expensive as we go north.



Our first impression of Barilochi was, it's  not living up to the reputation of being Swiss like. Yes there are quite a few big lakes around, and quite a few tall mountains about, but the outskirt of the city is quite poor and rugged, until within 1 Km of the city center.  

Barilochi is by the southern shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi, the largest lake in the Lakes District, and is a popular skiing resort.  However, we were in the middle of summer.



At Cerro Otto, a few hundred meters high up, overlooking Lake Nahuel Huapi, we could get a uninterrupted sweeping view of the big lake. Though the road was very bad, but there are full of mansions hidden in forests.  Just to show that, there is a big divide between the haves and have nots.

Wonderful views were to be had on a clear day, with the Andes mountains in the distance.





At night, there were only two blocks in the town center which had people walking around, mainly tourists, I think.  The rest of the town was quite dark and quiet.

The winds of Patagonia had returned this evening, and there was again a chill in the air.

After a restful night, it was time to extend our reach further to the west, along the big lake.

The western outskirts of Barilochi is indeed, very much Swiss like, with its lakes and high mountains around, and a generally tranquil surrounding. 



It was a pleasant loop drive of about 100 Km, before we headed out of town north-westwards along the lakeside, towards Llao Llao.  However, it seemed a little pale if one had just been through southwestern Patagonia, but it is still great scenery.





It was time to have a picnic lunch under the mild sun, in the town square, before heading out north again.  It certainly is Swiss like vacation town.




After lunch, we continued our long drive to the north, hoping to reach San Martin de los Andes in the late afternoon.



Our car picked up RN 40 North on the outskirt, and had one final look at Barilochi from the other side of the lake.



It was again quite a boring drive to San Martin de los Andes, going from lake to lake, nice easy drive, except for about 40 Km of gravel road.  This is the Seven Lakes district, tours are offered to take people through all the lakes by bus.  At this stage, we were somewhat laked-out !!



The whole area are full of holiday houses with boat marinas everywhere, and the weather was perfect for water activities.  With these great lakes who wouldn't !  Unfortunately, we had not planned for a leisurely stay.




On the sealed highway, the wheel balancing problem had again shown up, that needed to be attended to, annoying!

Finally, we could see San Martin at the eastern end of the long Lake Lacar, basking in the late afternoon sun.  A quaint little town it seemed, from a distance.



Indeed, San Martin de los Andes is very very beautiful and clean, very European like, if not just Swiss like.  A bright little town, like Bright in Victoria, Australia.  The Tourism Information office, for the first time, had someone who could actually speak fluent English.  The Hotel was comfortable and exceptionally clean, and not expensive at all.





The first thing in the next morning was to change the new tyre with the spare, that should rid of the annoying steering shake at high speed, as largely, good roads were expected from here onwards.  We hope.

There were only rotten fruits & veges at the supermarket in San Martin de los Andes, despite being a nice, rich looking little town, I would not vouch for its selections of fresh foods.

It had been a bit annoying for the last few days, that quite a few YPF Service Stations were not able to process Credit Cards with smart chips, therefore we had to fork out cash for fuels. That means we might have to change more Peso cash soon, the next big town was Mendoza, which was at least 3 days away.  I was surprised that YPF, being such a large corporation, some of their services stations were just so behind in technology.




Ahead of us, was a long and boring drive to Chos Malal in Neuquen Province, a 470 km northward drive through wide ancient canyons.  The general landscape is very mush semi arid desert like, similar to Central Australia or Utah.


But the volcanoes that dot the Andes ranges are hanging about in the distant horizon.


It was such a easy and boring a drive, that we began to count kilometer markers on RN 40 ( National Route #40). 


Our trip odometer breached 8000 Km shortly before we arrived at Chos Malal, ie since 25 days ago from Buenos Aires.


It looked like  a major fibre optic network was being laid, piles of fibre optic cable ducting were lying along the highway.  Future travelers will see great improvements of their internet speed, we hope !



Chos Malal is a 5 street town, with a very enthusiastic policeman at the southern entrance of the town on RN40.  Once he knew we were tourists from Australia, he was so excited, that he called his boss out from the office to say “hola”, whose name I now forgot.  But the warmth was welcoming. 



A small distance down the road was the tourism information office.  The lady had just closed shop ( just after 6 pm) and when she saw us rolling into the car park, she quickly retraced and unlocked the office, to help us with all the information, which was basically a local map, with all the hotels marked.  But her attitude counted a lot in my parlance.



Just before reaching the center of the township, there was a long line of, what seemed like car wrecks, that's worrying !!


As we cruised along the main street, I did not like the look of a long queue in front of the only YPF service station in town….the question of petrol availability came to mind immediately.  So quickly after checking into a local hotel, I dashed to join the queue, for tomorrow was likely to be a long 500 Km drive.  And we needed and got a full tank.

The local supermarket was much better stocked, with fruits and veges, despite the isolation and the less than interesting outlook of the town.




So it was time for an early night, ready for a long drive ahead, continuing north.  We were going to leave Patagonia sometime soon.




Monday, 25 February 2013

Day 22 - 24 Austral Rt 7 of Chile - Coyhaique to Esquel, Argentina

Previous Post: Day 20 - 21 Austral Rt 7 Tortel to Coyhaique

Photo Album: Austral Rt 7 north of Coyhaique
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Links for previous posts are on the left. Expand the month tags to see posts for that month.

The weather continued to be cold and wet when we left our B&B at Coyhaique.  It was a quiet Sunday morning, we had a quick drive around, fueled up, and continued on the scenic Rt 7 going north.



Soon after we left town, we had to negotiate a very winding road up to a hill top with a viewing area, where the road turned to gravel again.  Here we could have a grand birds eye view of Coyhaique, a fair sized town.


Gradually more and more farm lands with tall tree boundary, and mountains became greener as well, it seemed that we were easing out of the colder part of Patagonia.



Eventually, the road turned into a two lane sealed highway about 60 Km out.  It should be easier on fuel and on the back side as well. But a new problem surfaced, as we gathered speed on the first length of long straight roads, the steering wheel started to shake, a good indication that the front wheel was out of balance. It would be a simple fix, but finding the shop to fix it is another question. So it was just a case of putting up with the discomfort.


Further down the road, more tall mountains became a standard feature, and small lakes.


And a beautiful lake for a bite and a reflective moment.




But the good road later turned back into a gravel road through a rain forest area.





By mid afternoon, we reached our major attraction for the day, the Hanging Glacier at Queulat National Park, clearly visible from the road.




It was a long hike up and down, a 300m or so up a muddy steep mountain track, to the viewing point.  First we have to cross a torrential river on a hanging bridge.





After an exhilarating hour, we have this close up view of the Hanging Glacier.



With climate change, I wondered how long will this last. In the meantime, enjoy.

It was late afternoon when we left the Hanging Glacier, and drove along a long bay, at the end of it, lies Puyuhuapi.



And found a small and comfortable hostel in the small fishing village.





Early, the next morning,  With not a sound in the house, we weren’t too sure when our host will wake up for breakfast, so we stayed put until nearly 9. Unbeknown to us, they were actually waiting in their own quarter in another house, and we them here…. funny ! They must have explained to us in the previous night...we probably misunderstood it, with the language barrier.  So it was well nearly 10, before we had breakfast and said ciao and gracias.

After a nice breakfast, we left our hostel at Puyuhuapi just before 10.  The mist were still hanging around from yesterday's wet weather, but when we got onto Austral Rt 7 going north, the sky started to clear up like the forecast.  After about 10Km of good road, we soon hit the big goat track again, doing no more than 30 – 40 Kph, but not quite bone shakingly.



There seemed to be quite a few cycling travelers on Austral Rt 7 , but probably the same was true during the whole time we were in Patagonia.




Three and half hours later, and 115 Km after leaving Puyuhuapi, it was time to say goodbye to Austral Rt 7, and head east towards the border town of Futalefu.






We had to go through a few mountain passes, some alongside rapid rivers which, 





seemed to be white water rafting haven, and definitely we can see activities going on.

Futalefu is the last village / town in Chile we saw on this trip.  We just need to cut through a few more mountains passes, on some narrow corrugated gravel roads.




And finally, the village of Futalefu, a small border village only with a few people.  By now we are down to the last 10,000 Chilean Pesos, about $20, and just as well, since we'll soon be crossing back to Argentina anyway.

So far, we still had not came across any tyre shop that could balance the front tyre for us, hoping to the spend the last lot of our Chilean Pesos, but we could travel too fast anyway, so it hadn't been a problem at all.



After a small rest at Futalefu, 11 Km later, we arrived at the border post.

About 7 Km before the border post, it was grade A highway to the border, perhaps that's how the Chilean wants to show the Argentinian what good roads are about.




It was not a busy day for them, so we were stamped out of Chile quite quickly, since we were leaving, there was no custom inspection.

A few hundred meters away, the Argentine flag was waiting for us.



This must be a popular border post, it is quite a bit bigger than the previous at Cerro Castillo, down south next to Torres del Paine National Park, and they were slow, because the officers were very talkative.  Possibly they were a little bored that day, late Monday afternoon.

Knowing that I came from Australia, the immigration officer kept asking me about Soccerooes, which I ashamedly do not know much except a few names, because, I don't follow soccer. Between his broken English and my minuscule Spanish, fortunately, I did not commit any big faux pax, for example, mentioning Ronaldo, who actually led the Brazil team in demolishing the Argentine a few times.....that much I know !  Phew !



We left the border post with all the requisite stamps, and left for Esquel, the nearest town for our night.

This was to be our last border crossing with Chile, so ciao to Chile.  On this trip, we had only traveled through the beautiful and majestic Patagonian region of Chile, it certainly left an excellent impression with us, everything seems to work well, she certainly is not a first world country, but in many ways, it seemed a much safer country than Argentina with very friend people, especially after the saga of having our luggage stolen in El Chalten.

Along Rio Futalefu, we continued for a while through some mountain roads, 



before a great wide plain, like that along the Altantic coast appeared.  We are now back in Chubut Province, along the western borders with Chile, but still in Patagonia.


An hour later, on arriving Esquel, along the main boulevard, we were pleasantly surprised to find the Tourism Information office was still opened well after 6 pm.

With their help, we were able to locate a comfortable hostel, on the hills above the town.



So it was another long day, with 10 hours covering a pretty average distance of 270 km.  We were poised to travel through another scenic lakes district of Argentina over the next few days.