Photo Album: Exploring Torres del Paine National Park
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It was early morning at Tyndall Lodge, Rio Serrno. The sun just peeped through the unsettling clouds. The view outside our window just could not be better !!
The Cuernos ( Horns ) of Torres Del Paines were fully on display....I was lost for words, just snapping away as it could end at any moment.
Although the weather looked unstable, without further ado, after breakfast, after ascertaining that a room was reserved for us at US$250 for the night, we left for the south entrance. But we had to pack our gears, as it would be a different room, we were told.
It was only a 5km drive, but here was one of the views.
The entrance fee to the park was US$80, and the ranger happily issued us the permit to enter, but not before we paid.
We first took to the direction of Lago Grey, the northwestern direction.
The first walk was an easy one, over fairly flat terrain, we walked to see some icebergs by skirting along the southern edges of Lago ( Lake ) Grey, and walked along a long black sand bank across part of the Rio Grey.
The notorious Patagonia wind was starting to pick up, stirring up waves on Lago Grey. One whosh, my 7 year companion, a limited edition Driza Bone hat was in the icy water, flowing away from me.
It was a moment of great sorrow, a hat that had survived many losts over the years, at different places, once up on the peak of Cradle mountain for a few hours, one year away in the highland bushes of Victoria, a few months hidden in the Wombeyan Caves in NSW and a few other short mishaps, and every time, it returned miraculously. But what about this time, my camera captured the final shot. Sad but true !
There was no use crying over spilled milk. So we continued, braving the strong head wind. R.I.P.
But somehow I still held hope!
Glacier Grey can be seen at the northern end of Lago Grey, but it would be a hike of 6 - 7 hours to get to its terminal, which was out of the question with the time we had on hand. We could see the waters were roughed up as a result of the big whirling winds.
There were many icebergs which broke away from the glacier flowing downstream.
These ices were a few hundred years old, hard to fathom that one, but it is so true !
Still recovering from the sorrow of losing my Driza Bone hat, as we walked back across the long sand bank back to the car park, lo and behold ! Isn't that my lost friend again, floating just by the edge of the beach. With the extended hiking stick, we gleefully picked it up, back in my hands. Here we are, this hat and I are meant to be together. Whoever says miracle can't happen !!...................
And we had a little celebration over a bottle of water and lunch.
Then we decided what better was to hike up the Ferrier Mirador on top the hill, right above the car park, about a 600- 700m steep ascent, with the wind seem to have calmed down.
So were a few antelopes, greeting us along the way.
From here, we could see the long sand bank across Rio Grey with the icebergs floating in the distance.
By the time we reached the top, the wind picked up again, and it was quite an arduous walk against the wind, or even to stand up at exposed places. The best way was to sit down and absorb in the views.
It was a good three hours up and down Ferrier Hill to the Ferrier Mirador, an 600m ascent, and we did it!!
It was late in the afternoon by the time we started our drive to Salto Grande on Rio Paine, some 35 Km away.
The road conditions were good but on dusty gravel road. However, the culprit to the slow drive was the gripping scenery along the way.
As we were getting closer, and the horns were becoming bigger and bigger, with Lago Pehoe right beneath.
And Salto ( waterfalls ) Grande coming into view. And finally, the torrents....
Right underneath the great horns.
What better thing to do than just roaming about underneath, taking in the spirits, so to speak. We had forgotten the time, the need to return to Tyndall Lodge before 6 to claim our room !
It was well after 18:00 before we woke up from this trance, the total immersion in nature, pristine silence, even the gusting wind had gone.
Now, what should we do for the night, by my estimation, it would take 30 to 45 minutes to get back to Lyndall Lodge, and by no means, our room would be available still, then what would plan B be?
We went the the nearby only hotel on the lake, and sorry, no room ! Then not too far away, we saw a camping ground, Lago Pehoe Camp, and the office was just about to close when we got there. Yes, the only thing available was a tent, and they can provide all the blankets, for US$80, take it or we are closing? Sure, why not, at least this was certainty.
And we had a most windy night of camping, warm but noisy, under a wooden shelter, presumably a standard necessity for camping in the Patagonia gusts.
But we had a calm morning with a beautiful uninterrupted view.
Soon after a simple breakfast, we were on the move, slowly driving towards the eastern side of TDP, marveling at the sights along the way, across Lake Nordenskjol.
Slowly, other perspectives of the cuernos were coming into view.
And we reached the eastern gate, at Lake Amarga. More beauties were awaiting.
One couldn't do worse than sitting by a raging cascade on Rio Paine than munching a sandwich, celebrating and reflecting on life.
All good things must come to an end, when we reached the fork to deliver ours self to the Chilean border posts near Cerro Castillo.
It was a quiet day at Rio Don Guillermo post, perhaps we were lucky, only two or three couples were there, and we were stamped out quickly. As we got into our car to cross the 600m no-mans-land to the Argentinian post, a big and packed tourist bus pulled in.
A few kilometers down the road, we found the Argentinian border sign.
It was nearly 10 Km from the Chilean post, before we saw the Argentine border post, and we were stamped back into Argentina swiftly, car and people.
We were now back in Santa Cruz Province, on the western side. Our ultimate destination of the day was El Calafate, a good 225 Km away, all rocky and corrugated gravel roads save the first 20Km or so.
The road conditions and the scenery took a toll on the driving time, and a good 4 hours passed before we checked into our hostel at El Calafate, without prior booking.
It was over 400Km since we left Tyndall Lodge in the morning of the previous day, half of it spent in TDP, over two long and rewarding days of majestic sights.
So far, its been over 4,600 Kms traveled in this little Chevy Spark, over some fairly rough terrains, not a hiccup, yet !
P.S.......especially for men, taking aim in windy Patagonia outside, can be perilous, watch how and where your stance is facing.
The Cuernos ( Horns ) of Torres Del Paines were fully on display....I was lost for words, just snapping away as it could end at any moment.
Although the weather looked unstable, without further ado, after breakfast, after ascertaining that a room was reserved for us at US$250 for the night, we left for the south entrance. But we had to pack our gears, as it would be a different room, we were told.
It was only a 5km drive, but here was one of the views.
The entrance fee to the park was US$80, and the ranger happily issued us the permit to enter, but not before we paid.
We first took to the direction of Lago Grey, the northwestern direction.
The first walk was an easy one, over fairly flat terrain, we walked to see some icebergs by skirting along the southern edges of Lago ( Lake ) Grey, and walked along a long black sand bank across part of the Rio Grey.
It was a moment of great sorrow, a hat that had survived many losts over the years, at different places, once up on the peak of Cradle mountain for a few hours, one year away in the highland bushes of Victoria, a few months hidden in the Wombeyan Caves in NSW and a few other short mishaps, and every time, it returned miraculously. But what about this time, my camera captured the final shot. Sad but true !
There was no use crying over spilled milk. So we continued, braving the strong head wind. R.I.P.
But somehow I still held hope!
Glacier Grey can be seen at the northern end of Lago Grey, but it would be a hike of 6 - 7 hours to get to its terminal, which was out of the question with the time we had on hand. We could see the waters were roughed up as a result of the big whirling winds.
There were many icebergs which broke away from the glacier flowing downstream.
These ices were a few hundred years old, hard to fathom that one, but it is so true !
Still recovering from the sorrow of losing my Driza Bone hat, as we walked back across the long sand bank back to the car park, lo and behold ! Isn't that my lost friend again, floating just by the edge of the beach. With the extended hiking stick, we gleefully picked it up, back in my hands. Here we are, this hat and I are meant to be together. Whoever says miracle can't happen !!...................
And we had a little celebration over a bottle of water and lunch.
Then we decided what better was to hike up the Ferrier Mirador on top the hill, right above the car park, about a 600- 700m steep ascent, with the wind seem to have calmed down.
So were a few antelopes, greeting us along the way.
From here, we could see the long sand bank across Rio Grey with the icebergs floating in the distance.
By the time we reached the top, the wind picked up again, and it was quite an arduous walk against the wind, or even to stand up at exposed places. The best way was to sit down and absorb in the views.
It was a good three hours up and down Ferrier Hill to the Ferrier Mirador, an 600m ascent, and we did it!!
It was late in the afternoon by the time we started our drive to Salto Grande on Rio Paine, some 35 Km away.
The road conditions were good but on dusty gravel road. However, the culprit to the slow drive was the gripping scenery along the way.
As we were getting closer, and the horns were becoming bigger and bigger, with Lago Pehoe right beneath.
And Salto ( waterfalls ) Grande coming into view. And finally, the torrents....
Right underneath the great horns.
It was well after 18:00 before we woke up from this trance, the total immersion in nature, pristine silence, even the gusting wind had gone.
Now, what should we do for the night, by my estimation, it would take 30 to 45 minutes to get back to Lyndall Lodge, and by no means, our room would be available still, then what would plan B be?
We went the the nearby only hotel on the lake, and sorry, no room ! Then not too far away, we saw a camping ground, Lago Pehoe Camp, and the office was just about to close when we got there. Yes, the only thing available was a tent, and they can provide all the blankets, for US$80, take it or we are closing? Sure, why not, at least this was certainty.
And we had a most windy night of camping, warm but noisy, under a wooden shelter, presumably a standard necessity for camping in the Patagonia gusts.
But we had a calm morning with a beautiful uninterrupted view.
Soon after a simple breakfast, we were on the move, slowly driving towards the eastern side of TDP, marveling at the sights along the way, across Lake Nordenskjol.
Slowly, other perspectives of the cuernos were coming into view.
And we reached the eastern gate, at Lake Amarga. More beauties were awaiting.
One couldn't do worse than sitting by a raging cascade on Rio Paine than munching a sandwich, celebrating and reflecting on life.
All good things must come to an end, when we reached the fork to deliver ours self to the Chilean border posts near Cerro Castillo.
It was a quiet day at Rio Don Guillermo post, perhaps we were lucky, only two or three couples were there, and we were stamped out quickly. As we got into our car to cross the 600m no-mans-land to the Argentinian post, a big and packed tourist bus pulled in.
A few kilometers down the road, we found the Argentinian border sign.
It was nearly 10 Km from the Chilean post, before we saw the Argentine border post, and we were stamped back into Argentina swiftly, car and people.
We were now back in Santa Cruz Province, on the western side. Our ultimate destination of the day was El Calafate, a good 225 Km away, all rocky and corrugated gravel roads save the first 20Km or so.
The road conditions and the scenery took a toll on the driving time, and a good 4 hours passed before we checked into our hostel at El Calafate, without prior booking.
It was over 400Km since we left Tyndall Lodge in the morning of the previous day, half of it spent in TDP, over two long and rewarding days of majestic sights.
So far, its been over 4,600 Kms traveled in this little Chevy Spark, over some fairly rough terrains, not a hiccup, yet !
P.S.......especially for men, taking aim in windy Patagonia outside, can be perilous, watch how and where your stance is facing.
Next Post : Day 14 - 15 Perito Moreno & El Chalten
Other Posts: Index - 2013 Argentina-Chile self drive.
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